São Miguel – the green pearl of the Azores

Introduction

Before I dive into the individual attractions I recommend, I’d like to briefly explain where I was. I noticed that when I told people we were flying to the Azores, many of them looked at me oddly and asked, “Azores? Where is that?”

The Azores are a group of islands in the North Atlantic, consisting of nine fascinating islands that belong to Portugal. These stunning islands offer a unique blend of pristine nature, volcanic landscapes, and rich wildlife. From the lush green valleys and majestic craters of São Miguel to the dramatic cliffs and deep blue lagoons of Pico, each island boasts its own unique beauty. The Azores are not only a paradise for nature lovers and adventurers but also an ideal place for peaceful moments of relaxation and self-discovery. Whether you’re hiking through spectacular landscapes, observing whales, or relaxing in natural hot springs – the Azores promise an unforgettable experience.

We deliberated for a long time about whether we should explore several islands, but ultimately decided to focus only on the largest island, São Miguel. We wanted a relaxing vacation where we could fully enjoy everything at a leisurely pace. Island hopping requires more time than just one week.

Arrival

How do you get to the Azores islands, specifically São Miguel? We flew with the airline Edelweiss from Zurich to Ponta Delgada. The flight takes approximately 4.5 hours. From Zurich, there are two direct flights per week.

Car rental

I highly recommend renting a car when you're on the Azores. It's the best way to get from one place to another since public transportation is almost non-existent. We chose the provider Funchal Drive and were extremely satisfied. Upon our arrival at the airport, we just had to send a message, and we were promptly picked up. After a short drive, our rental car was already waiting for us. We were very happy with the car. The return process was also smooth and very straightforward.

Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego

Before we flew to the island São Miguel, we naturally did our research online to decide which places we wanted to visit. We read numerous travel guides, but none of them mentioned Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego – so it wasn’t on our list.

After we arrived, we decided on a whim to explore the surrounding area a bit. My boyfriend quickly searched the internet for interesting spots nearby and found this viewpoint, which was only five minutes away from our accommodation.

And I can assure you, this place is truly special. Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego is a picturesque viewpoint with a lush green garden on a hillside and a breathtaking panoramic view over the ocean. You shouldn’t miss it! What I found most impressive and striking were the plants and flowers. The flowers on the island of São Miguel are incredibly beautiful, and their colors are so vibrant and intense.

What’s also great about this place is the abundance of picnic areas. There are tables with benches and fire pits everywhere, creating a really cozy atmosphere.

Terra-Nostra Park

The Terra-Nostra Park is a botanical garden located in the Furnas area. One of its major attractions is undoubtedly the large pool with naturally brown thermal water, which has a temperature of 38°C. Swimming is allowed, and many visitors bring their swimwear. Be aware that the water can stain, so you might want to avoid bringing your best swimsuit. If, like me, you have blonde hair, it's a good idea to tie it up, as it can quickly take on an unwanted coppery tint.

The entrance fee to the park is 8 EUR per person. Additionally, there is a restaurant on-site, although it is positioned in the higher price range.

Furnas

Furnas is also known as the Valley of Hot Springs, and for good reason. The region is characterized by numerous thermal springs, which are a result of the area's volcanic activity. This activity is most strikingly visible in the so-called Caldeiras – steaming spots of boiling water. A unique Azorean specialty, called Cozido, is prepared in these earth pits. The dish consists of meat and vegetables, which are placed in a pot, wrapped in a cloth, and then lowered into the pit with a rope.

I must honestly admit that we didn’t try this dish. On the one hand, we didn’t have the time, and on the other hand, we’re not big meat eaters, so we decided to pass on it.

Plantação Ananases A Arruda

We visited several places and attractions on São Miguel, but I think this was my absolute favorite. The pineapple plantation was incredibly interesting, and you learn a lot about the history of pineapples on the Azores. The visit is free, and you can see the different stages of pineapple growth.

What I really loved was the souvenir shop where you could buy some amazing products. To make sure you actually like them, you could order a tasting platter and enjoy it in the charming backyard. The platter was delicious, and of course, a tasty cocktail like a Piña Colada was a must. For me, this place is an absolute must-visit on São Miguel.

Miradouro da Boca do Inferno

If you're looking for that special viewpoint that you know from postcards or the image often associated with the Azores, it's the Miradouro da Boca do Inferno. From there, you'll have a breathtaking view of the two lakes: the blue Lagoa Azul, which shines in a vibrant blue due to the reflection of the sky, and the Lagoa Verde, which appears green thanks to the surrounding vegetation.

According to legend, the color differences of the lakes are the result of the tears of an unfulfilled love between a princess and a simple shepherd. During their last meeting on the bridge between the two lakes, their tears flowed into the waters. The princess's tears turned one lake blue, while the shepherd's tears made the other green.

You can only reach the viewpoint on foot. We parked our car along the roadside, as many others did as well. Although we had hardly seen any people on the island before, we realized here that there are indeed many tourists. The walk to the viewpoint takes about 15 minutes and leads through a forest. Towards the end, you'll need to walk up a small hill and climb a few steps. I recommend wearing good shoes and avoiding this trip in rainy weather, as the path can get quite slippery.

Monte Palace

You might be familiar with “Lost Places.” On the Azorean Island of São Miguel, there’s a particularly intriguing one: the former luxury hotel Monte Palace. It's important to note that entering the hotel is both forbidden and dangerous, but it still draws many visitors, and we saw some tourists venturing inside.

We decided to admire the hotel from the outside. The story behind this place is fascinating yet tragic. Thirty-four years ago, Monte Palace was a 5-star hotel with 88 rooms and around 100 staff members. However, guests were scarce, and on the day the hotel was awarded “Hotel of the Year,” the staff learned it would close just 18 months after opening.

For 20 years after the closure, a guard with dogs protected the hotel from vandalism. Once the guard was no longer paid, locals stripped the building, leaving only its shell.

It’s now clear that the hotel was built in the wrong place at the wrong time. Tourism was minimal, and infrastructure was poor. Chinese investors bought the ruins with plans to reopen by 2021, but as of 2024, it remains unchanged.

There are three food trucks near the hotel where you can buy food and drinks.

Praia de Santa Barbara

For a pure beach vacation, I wouldn’t recommend São Miguel, as it’s in the Atlantic Ocean and the water is notably rougher and colder compared to the Mediterranean. Nevertheless, we didn’t want to miss out on a beach visit and chose Santa Barbara Beach. There, many people had spread their towels on the black pebbles and were enjoying the sun. You’ll also often see surfers there. The Atlantic coast seems to be an ideal place to learn surfing.

We relaxed at the Tuká Tulá Beach Bar, enjoying a delicious cocktail with a stunning view in front of us.

Chá Gorreana 

Chá Gorreana is one of two tea factories on São Miguel and is among the largest tea plantations in Europe. At the on-site souvenir shop, visitors can purchase regional tea as well as other typical Azorean products. Across the street, there is a walking trail that leads around the plantations, where the true scale of the estate becomes apparent. It is advisable to wear sturdy footwear, as the ground can be quite uneven in some areas.

Miradouro de Santa Iria

The viewpoint at Santa Iria Bay offers an impressive view of the northern coast of São Miguel, characterized by sprawling tea plantations and the town of Porto Formoso. Situated at an elevation of 190 meters, this spot is certainly no secret – as evidenced by the small souvenir shop that has set up there. Nonetheless, it’s definitely worth a visit.

What really stood out for us here was the food: there was a stand selling fresh pineapples, which tasted absolutely fantastic. A must-try!

Our accommodation in Nordeste

We deliberately chose two different accommodations since the island is quite large, and we wanted to avoid unnecessarily long drives. The first accommodation was in the east, specifically in the picturesque village of Nordeste. The name of the house is Casa do Cinzeiro. Upon our arrival, we immediately fell in love with the house – it had been beautifully renovated and was equipped with everything we needed.

The house features two cozy bedrooms, two modern bathrooms with showers, a fully equipped kitchen with a refrigerator and dishwasher, as well as two spacious living areas with sofas and TVs. The lovingly designed garden invites you to spend warm summer evenings outside – provided, of course, that the weather cooperates.

A barbecue area, a beautiful pool, and a stunning view complete the idyllic setting. The property is secured by a gate, making you always feel safe. Our host Pedro was extremely attentive and surprised us with a welcome gift that included local products from the Azores.

We would happily stay at this accommodation again.

Our accommodation in Ponta Delgada

If you’re looking for an apartment in or near Ponta Delgada, I can highly recommend AL Açores. This provider offers a wide selection of beautiful apartments and houses. We chose the apartment "Hospitality is an Art" in Ponta Delgada, and we were absolutely delighted. The apartment is tastefully decorated, reflecting the excellent sense of style of the hosts.

What is particularly noteworthy is the outstanding communication. I was part of a WhatsApp group where I was consistently kept informed and could reach out at any time if needed. Additionally, the hosts regularly checked in with us during our stay to ensure everything was still in order. This level of attentiveness is not something you can take for granted in today’s often hectic world, and it made our stay even more enjoyable.

That’s why I can wholeheartedly recommend this accommodation and provider.

Restaurant

Located near the Terra-Nostra Park in Furnas, you'll find the wonderful restaurant A Terra, which is part of the Octant Furnas Hotel. The restaurant impresses with its stylish decor, abundant greenery, and inviting ambiance. What stood out to me in particular is that they offer not only traditional burgers but also plant-based alternatives. We tried both a meat and a plant-based burger, and both were excellent. The drinks are also worth mentioning – the glasses were not only impressively designed, but the drinks themselves were also extremely tasty.

The second restaurant I’d like to recommend is Rotas in Ponta Delgada. It’s a small, cozy place, so you should definitely make a reservation in advance. We tried to reserve a table, but unfortunately, it was already fully booked. However, someone canceled, and the lovely Carolina promptly sent me a text asking if we still wanted to come – that was really thoughtful. You can feel this warmth and friendliness in the restaurant as well. The staff are cheerful, singing and dancing, which creates a wonderful atmosphere. The food is delicious, and they serve only vegetarian dishes.

Closing words

My vacation on São Miguel left a deep impression on me, and I’m certain I’ll return there someday. What I especially appreciated was that the island hasn’t yet been overwhelmed by mass tourism, which gives it an authentic und unspoiled charm. If you enjoy being outdoors and want to be enchanted by the island’s stunning variety of colors and landscapes, I highly recommend it.