Istanbul - the vibrant metropolis on the Bosporus

Beyoğlu

This district is often referred to as the new Istanbul - the modern part where local life thrives. We rented our apartment in this district and found the location ideal for exploring the city. Here you can find great streets with quiet restaurants and, for me as a cat lover, many cats. However, I will go into more detail about this later in the blog.

There are also numerous restaurants in this part of the city, especially around Taksim Square, and you can find street food on every corner. A must-visit place for me is the chain Hafiz Mustafa 1864, known for the best baklavas in the world. I wholeheartedly agree - very sweet and sticky, and you get a sugar shock afterwards, but it's still worth it somehow. The selection in this store is enormous - baklava in all variations. Personally, I prefer the classic version with pistachios, nuts and honey.

The Havyar Café Cihangir is a great and quiet restaurant. We had a delicious omelette for breakfast.

Karaköy

This charming harbor district is part of the Beyoğlu district. A walk through this area is highly recommended. There is a cozy atmosphere, music plays everywhere, and the famous Umbrella Street is simply enchanting. The colorful umbrellas floating above the street create a magical ambience and invite you to linger.

Balat

The colorful Balat is located slightly outside the city center but is easily accessible by tram. The best option is to take the tram to the Fener station, from where you can explore the neighborhood on foot. The houses there look fantastic, almost like something out of another world. There are many trendy cafés and restaurants, and it's a little less crowded than other parts of the city. I especially recommend the Balatkapı Restaurant. It's a small vegan restaurant, more like a café, with incredibly delicious homemade bowls. For me, it was the best meal during our entire stay in Istanbul.

One negative thing I noticed was the litter on the streets, which really shocked me. I hope that this will change in the future.

Sultanahmet

First: This part of the city has the most sights, but unfortunately also the most people. What we didn’t like was the that it was simply too crowded for us. Nevertheless, I would still recommend including this part in your plans, as the sights are impressive.

The Hagia Sophia is a significant landmark and one of the top sights in Istanbul. It was once the largest church in the world, then a mosque and is now a museum. We decided to buy the tickets at the entrance, although you can also purchase them in advance - which I would probably do on my next visit. The entrance fee is around 60 Lira, which I found rather expensive for what is offered.

It is important to pay attention to your clothing. Shoulders and legs should be securely covered. Women with long hair must also cover their hair. A tip: make sure to pack a scarf so you don't have to buy one on site. You will not be allowed in without a scarf. Access is also not permitted during prayer times.

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, also known as the Blue Mosque, is the largest and most visually impressive mosque in Istanbul. We decided not to visit the interior as we wanted to focus on other things. Nevertheless, I was able to take some impressive photos of the outside.

My highlight in this part of the city was the Cisterna Basilica - the Sunken Palace. This underground water reservoir was originally built to supply water to the imperial household. It is a magical place and an impressive structure. The cistern also became famous through several major films. You might know James Bond - Love Greetings from Moscow or the adaptation of Dan Brown's novel Inferno starring Tom Hanks.

In other travel blogs, I read that you must visit the Seven Hills Restaurant. It is described as a beautiful rooftop terrace with a 360-degree view of the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. And yes, you do get that view. But you share it with hundreds of other people and thousands of seagulls. The restaurant attracts the birds with leftovers so that guests can take the perfect Instagram photo. Sorry, but that's just ridiculous. We briefly enjoyed the view and then went inside the restaurant to have a typical Turkish brunch. The brunch was good, but there are certainly many other restaurants that offer the same. So, my tip: skip the hype!

The Galata Bridge connects the districts of Sultanahmet and Beyoğlu. The bridge consists of two levels: Cars and trams pass on the upper level, while the lower level is home to numerous restaurants and space for pedestrians. Particularly fascinating are the many fishermen who fish from the bridge, creating a picturesque scene.

Here's an important insider tip: You’ll find many recommendations for great fish restaurants on the bridge. However, we heard from a resident of Istanbul that he would never eat fish there. Beware of potential overcharging and unwanted stomach issues.

Bosporus & Kadiköy

The Bosporus separates the European part of Istanbul from the Asian part. When else do you have the opportunity to see two continents at once? I highly recommend taking a boat trip. In the Sultanahmet district, we saw the typical boats and were a bit put off. Due to the many people on board, we were unsure if the trip would be relaxing.

Therefore, we booked a boat trip directly through GetYourGuide - and it was wonderful. The cost was about 40 EUR, and we enjoyed an almost ride on a yacht. Turkish tea and snacks were served on board. The trip lasted about 2.5 hours and our guide did a great job. We were able to board directly in Beyoğlu, which was very relaxing.

Cats

A huge plus for me and an impressive feature of Istanbul is the city's relationship with cats. Thousands of stray cats roam the streets of Istanbul. You see them in every corner, enjoying the sun and peacefully sleeping. How is something like this possible in such a large and lively city? There exists a unique friendship between the people of Türkiye and the cats. It is common for people there to feed the cats and, when needed, care for the cats, ensuring their well-being. The bond with which people fare for these animals deeply touched me.

There is even a famous cat named Gli who lived in the Hagia Sophia. Even Barack Obama had the privilege of meeting and petting the cat during his visit to Istanbul. During her lifetime, Gli had over 100,000 followers on Instagram in 2020. When the cat passed away, the president's spokesperson stated: "The cat will always be there, and all cats are welcome in our mosques." Gli was buried in the garden of Hagia Sophia. The story of this cat is proof of the enduring bond between humans and animals.

Accommodation

Our accommodation was located in the Beyoğlu district, and we booked it through Airbnb. I'm happy to share you the link to the apartment because it was truly fantastic. The decor was modern and stylish, the bathroom, especially the shower, was huge and beautifully designed. The terrace offered a gigantic view that was simply unbeatable. I would book this apartment again anytime.

Transport

Istanbul is very large. Unfortunately, it is not possible to reach everything on foot. There are various ways to get around. Many taxis are available – jokingly, we could say we didn’t book a vacation in New York. The yellow taxis that you recognise from New York can also be seen in Istanbul. However, there is one big negative point here - some taxi drivers drive very fast and carelessly, which affected my sense of safety. It is also known that prices are different for tourists compared to locals.

The tram is more pleasant. The trams are quite modern - the only thing that is a bit complicated is the tickets. You need to buy a card first and then you can top it up as needed. We didn’t know this before.  If you are traveling with several people, I recommend buying a family card as it’s cheaper. Cards can be purchased at nearly every stop.

In general, I recommend walking as much as possible, and if not feasible, using the tram.